bobby123
TECHKINGS RESIDENT
1. The Liteon DG-16D4S Drive
2. Remove the 4 case screws using a Philips screwdriver
3. Eject the tray (you can use a CK3 or the Xbox itself for power
4. Peel back the acoustic foam that sounds the tray opening
5. Holding the foam away from the case, remove the case lid
6. Spindle motor ribbon connector: Separate the black retention clip from the white housing. The ribbon will pull out easily
7. Laser motor ribbon connector: Separate the black retention clip from the white housing. The ribbon will pull out easily
8. Laser data ribbon connector: The white retention clip pivots through 90 degrees. Gently pull the clip upwards
9. The ribbon will pull out easily
10. DeSolder the tray sensor and tray drive motor wires 5 wires in total
11. Remove the PCB retention screw using a small Philips head screwdriver
12. Release the PCB retention clip and ease the board out
3. The PCB is now safely removed
14. To avoid heat damage to plastic, wrap the PCB in a few layers of aluminum foil
15. Press the foil to locate the MT1335WE chip. Cut a small window in the foil to expose the MT1335WE
16. Make sure that the window is large enough to expose all the epoxy
17. Using a heat gun, heat the area on low heat for 45 seconds. Then try the epoxy
18. The epoxy will initially go brittle
19. Heat the area again on low heat for another 15 seconds
20. When fully heated the epoxy will lift cleanly
21. As you can see when heated at the correct temperature, the epoxy starts to break off in large pieces
22. Don't try to go too far, reheat the area on low heat for another 15 seconds
23. When you hit the sweet spot, it lifts very easily
24. As you can see, it is very clean
25. Don't forget to re-heat regularly, on low heat for another 15 seconds
26. Continue onto the other sides
27. Clean up any lingering pieces of epoxy
28. Apply plenty solder to all the pins. The trick here is to use old fashioned lead solder. It melts at 180 degrees, 37 degress lower than the newer Lead free solder. So the chip will lift long before any of the other parts can. The excess solder makes it easy to see when the solder is molten and helps spread the heat evenly to all the pins
29. Heat the area continuously until the solder begins to melt. There is epoxy under the chip. Use an xacto knife to prise chip away from the PCB
30. The chip will come away easily. Remove the heat
31. The lift is clean and all pads are intact
32. Use braid and a soldering iron to remove the excess solder
33. There is still a lot of epoxy in the area that was under the chip
34. Re-wrap with foil, heat the area and remove the epoxy. It is also a good idea to clean all the pads with isopropanol alcohol after you have removed all the epoxy
35. A job well done
36. Place the new chip. The trick here is to not use the corner pins for alignment. You will notice the corner pads are larger and can throw you off. Use a the pin 1 in from the corner pin. Align one corner and solder 1 pin. Move to the opposite corner and correct and misalignments, then solder 1 pin. Check the 1st corner again and all pins to ensure they are nicely positioned
37. Apply flux to the pins and let it dry
38. Solder all the remaining pins...You may want to use a microscope at this point
39. TA DA
40. The tools you need.. all cheap ass, apart from the microscope
2. Remove the 4 case screws using a Philips screwdriver
3. Eject the tray (you can use a CK3 or the Xbox itself for power
4. Peel back the acoustic foam that sounds the tray opening
5. Holding the foam away from the case, remove the case lid
6. Spindle motor ribbon connector: Separate the black retention clip from the white housing. The ribbon will pull out easily
7. Laser motor ribbon connector: Separate the black retention clip from the white housing. The ribbon will pull out easily
8. Laser data ribbon connector: The white retention clip pivots through 90 degrees. Gently pull the clip upwards
9. The ribbon will pull out easily
10. DeSolder the tray sensor and tray drive motor wires 5 wires in total
11. Remove the PCB retention screw using a small Philips head screwdriver
12. Release the PCB retention clip and ease the board out
3. The PCB is now safely removed
14. To avoid heat damage to plastic, wrap the PCB in a few layers of aluminum foil
15. Press the foil to locate the MT1335WE chip. Cut a small window in the foil to expose the MT1335WE
16. Make sure that the window is large enough to expose all the epoxy
17. Using a heat gun, heat the area on low heat for 45 seconds. Then try the epoxy
18. The epoxy will initially go brittle
19. Heat the area again on low heat for another 15 seconds
20. When fully heated the epoxy will lift cleanly
21. As you can see when heated at the correct temperature, the epoxy starts to break off in large pieces
22. Don't try to go too far, reheat the area on low heat for another 15 seconds
23. When you hit the sweet spot, it lifts very easily
24. As you can see, it is very clean
25. Don't forget to re-heat regularly, on low heat for another 15 seconds
26. Continue onto the other sides
27. Clean up any lingering pieces of epoxy
28. Apply plenty solder to all the pins. The trick here is to use old fashioned lead solder. It melts at 180 degrees, 37 degress lower than the newer Lead free solder. So the chip will lift long before any of the other parts can. The excess solder makes it easy to see when the solder is molten and helps spread the heat evenly to all the pins
29. Heat the area continuously until the solder begins to melt. There is epoxy under the chip. Use an xacto knife to prise chip away from the PCB
30. The chip will come away easily. Remove the heat
31. The lift is clean and all pads are intact
32. Use braid and a soldering iron to remove the excess solder
33. There is still a lot of epoxy in the area that was under the chip
34. Re-wrap with foil, heat the area and remove the epoxy. It is also a good idea to clean all the pads with isopropanol alcohol after you have removed all the epoxy
35. A job well done
36. Place the new chip. The trick here is to not use the corner pins for alignment. You will notice the corner pads are larger and can throw you off. Use a the pin 1 in from the corner pin. Align one corner and solder 1 pin. Move to the opposite corner and correct and misalignments, then solder 1 pin. Check the 1st corner again and all pins to ensure they are nicely positioned
37. Apply flux to the pins and let it dry
38. Solder all the remaining pins...You may want to use a microscope at this point
39. TA DA
40. The tools you need.. all cheap ass, apart from the microscope