power levels and re-connection

[egt1]

• Network log

Refresh data
Downstream bonded channels
Channel Frequency(Hz) Power(dBmV) SNR(dB) Modulation Channel ID
1 323000000 -2.5 37.6 256 qam 20
2 307000000 -2.9 37.6 256 qam 18
3 283000000 -3.2 37.3 256 qam 15
4 267000000 -3.7 37.3 256 qam 13
5 259000000 -3.7 37.3 256 qam 12
6 251000000 -3.7 37.3 256 qam 11
7 315000000 -2.7 37.6 256 qam 19
8 275000000 -3.4 37.6 256 qam 14
9 243000000 -3.4 36.8 256 qam 10
10 235000000 -2.7 37.3 256 qam 9
11 227000000 -2.2 37.3 256 qam 8
12 219000000 -2 37.6 256 qam 7
13 211000000 -1.7 37.3 256 qam 6
14 203000000 -1.5 37.3 256 qam 5
15 195000000 -1.2 37.3 256 qam 4
16 187000000 -0.7 37.3 256 qam 3
17 179000000 -0.2 37.3 256 qam 2
18 171000000 0.5 37.3 256 qam 1
19 299000000 -2.7 37.3 256 qam 17
20 291000000 -3 37.6 256 qam 16


so virgin have been out and installed a new V6 box and superhub 3.0 after i complained of low power levels. Above are my downstream levels. What i wish to know is, when i connect the Zgemma box is the signal likely to drop again. If so am i likely to need an amplified splitter?

 

[ste]

It's possible they may drop a little but not sure how much though - as long as it doesn't drop below -6 it's within range. They haven't fitted any of those little attenuators anywhere have they?

 

[egt1]

It's possible they may drop a little but not sure how much though - as long as it doesn't drop below -6 it's within range. They haven't fitted any of those little attenuators anywhere have they?

Set up tonight and power levels drop as soon as splitter put on. Splitter on outside box (5-1000mhz) feeds box in another room. Splitter inside (konig 3way) feeds living room. Both boxes can be on different channels and freeze at the same time. Its getting frustrating trying to eliminate problems

 

[ste]

Quality of cable and splitters are paramount to the outcome of the picture ... Assuming you have a TECHNETIX 2 way splitter in the box outside and you're using HIGH QUALITY cables inside (WF100) then you could try a different (TECHNETIX) 3 way splitter inside.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/White-RG5...267601?hash=item4b20b4cf11:g:HlUAAOSwNcZZdK0A

It might just work out though that it needs a powered splitter but up to you in which order you want to try things.

 

[ste]

I am surprised though that if they came out to your property, they left the levels so low.

 

[anj000]

How do u chek these levels on a superhub3? TIA

 

[ste]

How do u chek these levels on a superhub3? TIA

You have to log into it

 

[anj000]

Yep i no dat wt do u press once u log in TIA

 

[ste]

Yep i no dat wt do u press once u log in TIA

Please don't use text talk on the forum.

You just type 192.168.0.1 into your address bar and click enter, you don't need to physically log into the router with password - just click on Router Status icon top right side then it will have options to view downstream and upstream levels.

 

[egt1]

I am surprised though that if they came out to your property, they left the levels so low.

Which amplifier would be best VM hdu-200 or hdu-400? and would this be 1 for each box or just 1 in the household?

 

[egt1]

Which amplifier would be best VM hdu-200 or hdu-400? and would this be 1 for each box or just 1 in the household?

on my outside wall i have a splitter, with 1 wire going around the side of my house feeding a box in the back kitchen. where the wire enters the house in the front - this wire feeds a 2nd box and the router.
On the box in the kitchen where would i put the hdu-200, (what i mean is i cant take the splitter off the outside wall, as this is the only way i can get a 2nd box connected

 

[ste]

I have never set one of these HDU's up but a HDU 200 only has 2 outputs so I think you would need the HDU 400 - join the wire coming from the ground directly to the wire going into the front with an f joiner so there's no splitter in the brown box then run a wire from the white internal wall box to the input in the hdu 400 then run another wire from one of the outputs on the HDU back into the brown box outside and join it to the wire going into the kitchen again with an f joiner then you'll have 3 ports left - 1 for tv box, 1 for router and a spare... make sure you cap this off with a terminator.

 

[egt1]

I have never set one of these HDU's up but a HDU 200 only has 2 outputs so I think you would need the HDU 400 - join the wire coming from the ground directly to the wire going into the front with an f joiner so there's no splitter in the brown box then run a wire from the white internal wall box to the input in the hdu 400 then run another wire from one of the outputs on the HDU back into the brown box outside and join it to the wire going into the kitchen again with an f joiner then you'll have 3 ports left - 1 for tv box, 1 for router and a spare... make sure you cap this off with a terminator.

Big thanks for the help ste, (i'm starting to think that you are the only person talking on here lol) after reading around (took me ages) i'd pretty much figured the same setup with 1 amp splitter. Finally went for the Konig pro-amp 24 - just hope that when it arrives, it actually helps

 

[ste]

No problem - some people have reported good things with the konig ones but other people say go for the hdu's ... I suppose it's a case of what's cheapest / works best for you.

I am pretty sure though with the konig ones, you don't plug your router feed into it as it lowers the signal or somewhere along those lines - read that a few times on here previously.

 

[egt1]

...sorry to sound dumb, where would the router wire go if i cant plug it to the konig?, only 1 wire enters from the white box inside