Tips on puppy births.
- Thread starter dee
- Start date
Knotaclu
VIP Member
Dee, i feel for you man! I haven`t been at a birthing since i was a kid as all i haven`t had a bitch since, i vaguely remember that experience and my father and mother clucking around all night, there was six that night.
Anyway going by what i remember, i have looked around a few sites to find the most informative article based on them This is what i think is very well written and should help.
Good luck mate!
Here Come the Puppies!!
The delivery process begins with the onset of labor.
Labor is initially characterized by a restlessness and search for a comfortable, quiet area (the whelping box!). This is then followed by shallow panting which progresses to a more pronounced panting and the beginning of abdominal contractions. (For those of you parents familiar with Lamaze birthing, dogs do it naturally.) During this time fluid will start flowing from the vagina -- clear fluid with flecks of blood indicating the cervical mucous plug dissolving as well as the leakage of placental fluid. However, the most significant fluid is a blackish-green discharge that indicates that the first of the babies in its placenta is separating from the uterine wall. It is urgent that the puppy be delivered within ten minutes as it is separating from its source of oxygen with its disconnect from the uterus.
If abdominal contractions continue for more than twenty minutes without the presentation of the puppy or if the appearance of the black-green fluid is not followed quickly by the pup’s delivery, you need to seek veterinary help.
Each puppy will be born in its own placenta. It is the mother’s job to tear the placenta and lick the membranes away from the face to clear the respiratory tract which now needs to be able to function. The licking stimulates the newborn to breathe in much the same way that smacking a newborn human baby’s bottom causes it to take its initial breaths. Once the pup starts breathing the mom will chew through the umbilical cord and thus complete the separation from the placenta. If she either will not or cannot perform these duties, it will be up to you to do it.
You should be prepared with a pair of scissors, plenty of towels and washcloths as well as some dental floss or thread. Use the scissors to puncture the placental membranes, then tear them open and strip them from around the puppy. The placenta will continue to be attached to the puppy by the umbilical cord, but it is most important now to clear the nose and mouth of the mucous and fluid and stimulate breathing. Cradle the puppy in the towel or washcloth while you vigorously massage the body. Open the mouth and wipe it clean and then wipe the mucous off the nose. To facilitate more fluid removal from the respiratory tract, firmly support the cradled puppy’s neck, and with rapid flicking motions, rock the puppy. After several flicks and continual rubbing and wiping of the mouth or nose, the puppy should start drawing its first breaths and even some crying sounds may emerge. Once the puppy is breathing, tie off the umbilical cord by using the dental floss or thread. Place the tie about one half inch away from the body and then cut the rest of the cord about another half inch beyond the tie. This will release the rest of the placenta. Whew!!!
The puppies will tend to be delivered in pairs about twenty minutes apart. Usually there will be longer rest periods between the pairs that can vary from thirty minutes to an hour.
The same cautions still apply. If your female is pushing and nothing is being delivered—seek help.
Occasionally, you may need to help physically extract a partially presented puppy from the vagina. Use a wash cloth to get a better grip around the exposed puppy’s body. Exert a gentle yet steady pull, initially up towards the bitch’s tail then back straight and finally angle down. This arcing motion will allow the puppy to clear the pelvic floor which is tilted forward.
Post Partum Care
The pups and the mother should be checked by a veterinarian within twenty-four hours of the whelping to make sure that the uterus is now empty and that the breasts have enough milk to feed the puppies.
The puppies should be placed with the mother as soon as possible to begin nursing. Sometimes, first time mothers can be apprehensive and reject the puppies or attempt to harm them. Stay with the new family until you can ascertain the mother’s reaction. Your soothing presence will be a big help. Occasionally a mild sedative may be needed.
Nursing stimulates the release of a hormone called oxytocin which does two good things. It allows the milk to flow more freely and it facilitates the mother’s uterus to contract and expel any remaining pups or placentas or fluid. It is very important that the puppies nurse during the first twenty-four hours because it is during this time that the antibodies that protect against disease are transferred to the puppies. After twenty-four hours, the absorption of the antibodies is blocked and they are digested like any other proteins would be.
The mother will continue to have a vaginal discharge for about three weeks. Initially it will be blackish-green but will become cloudy for a few days then clear with occasional flecks of blood. The amount of the discharge should steadily decrease over the three week period.
During the nursing period, the nutritional requirements of the mother increase greatly. Allow her to eat free choice and double the vitamin and calcium supplementation. Her requirements will peak when the puppies are four to five weeks old. At this point you can gradually begin the weaning process by offering puppy food in the form of gruel to the litter mates. Initially you will need to wipe the food on their lips but in a short time they will figure out how to eat out of a shallow bowl or plate.
Everybody needs a break from their job and the mother is no exception. She will indicate to you when she needs a few minutes away from her litter. Take her on short walks, but listen to her should she indicate that she wants to return to her kids.
The puppies’ eyes and ears remain closed for about ten days so they remain quite inactive. As they see the light their activity will increase. As they grow and become more mobile there will be more and more clean-ups for you to do.
During the weaning process you will be decreasing the amount of milk that the pups are getting by introducing solid food. This transition can begin as early as four to five weeks and continue for three to four weeks until the pups are off the mother’s milk entirely. It is important to observe the mother’s breasts to make sure that they are not being engorged with milk. The breasts should always maintain some softness -- hard, warm breasts can indicate an infection.
How can you tell if the pups aren’t getting enough food from their mom? Simple — they will cry like any other hungry baby. If this is occurring early you may need to ********** with Canine Milk Formula given through a baby nurser. If the pups are mature enough you can simply start the weaning process earlier.
Watch mother’s general condition at all times, for she is the key to raising strong healthy pups.
Dr. Baum on Dog Pregnancy and Birthing Tips
Anyway going by what i remember, i have looked around a few sites to find the most informative article based on them This is what i think is very well written and should help.
Good luck mate!
Here Come the Puppies!!
The delivery process begins with the onset of labor.
Labor is initially characterized by a restlessness and search for a comfortable, quiet area (the whelping box!). This is then followed by shallow panting which progresses to a more pronounced panting and the beginning of abdominal contractions. (For those of you parents familiar with Lamaze birthing, dogs do it naturally.) During this time fluid will start flowing from the vagina -- clear fluid with flecks of blood indicating the cervical mucous plug dissolving as well as the leakage of placental fluid. However, the most significant fluid is a blackish-green discharge that indicates that the first of the babies in its placenta is separating from the uterine wall. It is urgent that the puppy be delivered within ten minutes as it is separating from its source of oxygen with its disconnect from the uterus.
If abdominal contractions continue for more than twenty minutes without the presentation of the puppy or if the appearance of the black-green fluid is not followed quickly by the pup’s delivery, you need to seek veterinary help.
Each puppy will be born in its own placenta. It is the mother’s job to tear the placenta and lick the membranes away from the face to clear the respiratory tract which now needs to be able to function. The licking stimulates the newborn to breathe in much the same way that smacking a newborn human baby’s bottom causes it to take its initial breaths. Once the pup starts breathing the mom will chew through the umbilical cord and thus complete the separation from the placenta. If she either will not or cannot perform these duties, it will be up to you to do it.
You should be prepared with a pair of scissors, plenty of towels and washcloths as well as some dental floss or thread. Use the scissors to puncture the placental membranes, then tear them open and strip them from around the puppy. The placenta will continue to be attached to the puppy by the umbilical cord, but it is most important now to clear the nose and mouth of the mucous and fluid and stimulate breathing. Cradle the puppy in the towel or washcloth while you vigorously massage the body. Open the mouth and wipe it clean and then wipe the mucous off the nose. To facilitate more fluid removal from the respiratory tract, firmly support the cradled puppy’s neck, and with rapid flicking motions, rock the puppy. After several flicks and continual rubbing and wiping of the mouth or nose, the puppy should start drawing its first breaths and even some crying sounds may emerge. Once the puppy is breathing, tie off the umbilical cord by using the dental floss or thread. Place the tie about one half inch away from the body and then cut the rest of the cord about another half inch beyond the tie. This will release the rest of the placenta. Whew!!!
The puppies will tend to be delivered in pairs about twenty minutes apart. Usually there will be longer rest periods between the pairs that can vary from thirty minutes to an hour.
The same cautions still apply. If your female is pushing and nothing is being delivered—seek help.
Occasionally, you may need to help physically extract a partially presented puppy from the vagina. Use a wash cloth to get a better grip around the exposed puppy’s body. Exert a gentle yet steady pull, initially up towards the bitch’s tail then back straight and finally angle down. This arcing motion will allow the puppy to clear the pelvic floor which is tilted forward.
Post Partum Care
The pups and the mother should be checked by a veterinarian within twenty-four hours of the whelping to make sure that the uterus is now empty and that the breasts have enough milk to feed the puppies.
The puppies should be placed with the mother as soon as possible to begin nursing. Sometimes, first time mothers can be apprehensive and reject the puppies or attempt to harm them. Stay with the new family until you can ascertain the mother’s reaction. Your soothing presence will be a big help. Occasionally a mild sedative may be needed.
Nursing stimulates the release of a hormone called oxytocin which does two good things. It allows the milk to flow more freely and it facilitates the mother’s uterus to contract and expel any remaining pups or placentas or fluid. It is very important that the puppies nurse during the first twenty-four hours because it is during this time that the antibodies that protect against disease are transferred to the puppies. After twenty-four hours, the absorption of the antibodies is blocked and they are digested like any other proteins would be.
The mother will continue to have a vaginal discharge for about three weeks. Initially it will be blackish-green but will become cloudy for a few days then clear with occasional flecks of blood. The amount of the discharge should steadily decrease over the three week period.
During the nursing period, the nutritional requirements of the mother increase greatly. Allow her to eat free choice and double the vitamin and calcium supplementation. Her requirements will peak when the puppies are four to five weeks old. At this point you can gradually begin the weaning process by offering puppy food in the form of gruel to the litter mates. Initially you will need to wipe the food on their lips but in a short time they will figure out how to eat out of a shallow bowl or plate.
Everybody needs a break from their job and the mother is no exception. She will indicate to you when she needs a few minutes away from her litter. Take her on short walks, but listen to her should she indicate that she wants to return to her kids.
The puppies’ eyes and ears remain closed for about ten days so they remain quite inactive. As they see the light their activity will increase. As they grow and become more mobile there will be more and more clean-ups for you to do.
During the weaning process you will be decreasing the amount of milk that the pups are getting by introducing solid food. This transition can begin as early as four to five weeks and continue for three to four weeks until the pups are off the mother’s milk entirely. It is important to observe the mother’s breasts to make sure that they are not being engorged with milk. The breasts should always maintain some softness -- hard, warm breasts can indicate an infection.
How can you tell if the pups aren’t getting enough food from their mom? Simple — they will cry like any other hungry baby. If this is occurring early you may need to ********** with Canine Milk Formula given through a baby nurser. If the pups are mature enough you can simply start the weaning process earlier.
Watch mother’s general condition at all times, for she is the key to raising strong healthy pups.
Dr. Baum on Dog Pregnancy and Birthing Tips
